Passport photo requirements, and why photos get rejected

An ID or passport photo is not judged as a photograph. It is checked against a list of measurements and conditions, and it fails if any one of them is out of range — which is why a photo that looks perfectly good to you can be refused at a counter. This guide sets out the passport photo requirements that actually decide acceptance, so you can tell which one your photo is failing before you pay for a print or send off an application.

One warning before anything else: the authority you are applying to is the only source that counts. The ranges below are the ones most authorities work to, and they are what the tool draws on screen, but an individual country, agency or employer can set a stricter one. Where the two disagree, theirs wins.

Passport photo requirements at a glance

If you only read one part of this page, read this table. It is the short version of everything that follows.

RequirementWhat most authorities ask for
Photo sizeFixed per document, in millimetres or inches — see the size table below
Head height60–70% of the image height. US passports ask for 50–69%
Eye lineRoughly 30–50% down from the top edge
BackgroundPlain, light and uniform. White for most passports; light grey for UK and Schengen documents
ExpressionNeutral, mouth closed, eyes open and unobscured
Head positionSquare to the camera; no tilt, no turn
GlassesBest removed. Where allowed: no glare, frames clear of the eyes, no tint
HeadwearGenerally not allowed. Religious or medical headwear usually needs a declaration
LightingEven, with no shadow on the face or across the background
ColourColour, not black and white
Resolution300 dpi is the usual expectation for a printed photo
Age of the photoRecent, and a true likeness — no visible retouching of the face

Passport photo size by country

These are the printed sizes converted to pixels at 300 dpi, the resolution most printing and online submission systems expect. The dimensions describe the finished photo, not the size of the subject within it. Background colours vary by document and are listed in the table above. The same figures are built into the passport photo maker, so you do not have to convert anything by hand.

DocumentPrinted sizePixels
China ID photo, 1 inch25 × 35 mm295 × 413
China ID photo, 2 inch35 × 49 mm413 × 579
China passport33 × 48 mm390 × 567
US passport / visa2 × 2 in600 × 600
UK passport35 × 45 mm413 × 531
Schengen visa35 × 45 mm413 × 531
Japan passport35 × 45 mm413 × 531
India passport2 × 2 in600 × 600
Canada passport50 × 70 mm591 × 827
Australia passport35 × 45 mm413 × 531
Confirm the size against your own authority before you submit. Specifications are revised, and some consulates want a size or background that differs from their national standard. Treat this table as a starting point rather than the last word — the same caution applies to every number on this page.

1. Framing: the head has to fill the right share of the frame

This is the most common reason a photo is refused by a human reviewer, and the least obvious to the person who took it. The rule is about proportion, not about the photo being the right pixel size. Getting the pixel dimensions correct only means the file is the right shape; the head inside it still has to sit where the reviewer expects.

Two measurements matter:

Both are easy to get wrong when you crop by eye, because the head does not fill the whole image — there is space above the hair and below the chin, and that space is part of the specification. If you crop tight to the face, the head height comes out too large. If you leave the whole torso in, it comes out too small.

The practical way to get this right is to place the two limits on the image before you start moving anything, and then drag the photo until the head sits between them. That is what the framing guides on the tool page are for; they mark the head-height band and the eye-line band directly on your photo, so the check is visual rather than arithmetic.

2. Background: "a white wall" is usually not white

The background rule reads simply — a plain, light, uniform background with no objects — and fails more often than any other requirement after framing. Three things go wrong.

The wall is not actually white. Interior paint is almost always a warm off-white or a faint grey, and under indoor lighting it photographs as beige or grey. To a human eye comparing it with paper, the difference is invisible; to a rule that asks for white, it is a failed requirement.

There is a shadow. A light source anywhere in front of the subject — a window, a lamp, a phone screen — throws a soft shadow onto the wall beside or behind the head. That shadow is a dark area on the background, which breaks the "uniform" part of the rule.

There is a colour cast. Mixed lighting (daylight plus a tungsten bulb) puts a yellow or green tint across the whole frame, background included.

The background colour itself is prescribed per document, and the common ones are white for most passports and visas, light grey or white for many national ID cards, and blue or red for some countries' documents. Some authorities accept a single colour only. It is worth checking yours rather than assuming white.

All three problems are fixable after the fact by measuring the background colour around the edges of the photo and replacing it, which is what the white background tool does. It is the reason that tool and this one are usually used together: replace the background first, then crop to the required size.

3. Expression, pose and the things people forget

These rules exist for automated face matching, so they are enforced literally rather than leniently:

Glasses

Many authorities now say remove them. Where they are permitted, three things are checked: no glare or reflection across the lenses, frames that do not cover any part of the eye, and no tinted or photochromic lenses that have darkened. Glare is the usual failure — it comes from a light source positioned in front of the subject, so the fix at the shooting stage is to move the light higher and to the side.

Headwear

Hats and caps are generally not allowed. Headwear worn for religious or medical reasons is usually permitted, but frequently requires a declaration or a supporting letter, and the face must still be fully visible from the bottom of the chin to the top of the forehead. If this applies to you, check the specific wording before the photo is taken rather than after.

4. Resolution, and why the printed size is not the pixel size

Digital submissions are usually specified in pixels, and printed submissions in millimetres. These are the same requirement expressed two ways, connected by the print resolution the authority expects — commonly 300 dpi, which is the point at which a photo stops looking soft when printed.

That relationship is why a photo that has been screenshotted, resized up from something small, or saved from a messaging app usually fails. Enlarging a small image does not add detail; it produces a file with the correct pixel dimensions and a visibly blurred face. If the face is not sharp at the size it will be printed, no setting in any tool will rescue it.

It is also why the crop has to be done from the original, not from a copy that has already been through one round of resizing. Each pass softens the image slightly, and a photo that goes through three tools before being cropped looks noticeably worse than one cropped once from the source.

5. The print sheet, and why copies are cheap

Print shops charge per sheet, not per photo. A 4×6 inch sheet of photo paper will hold ten one-inch ID photos, or four two-inch ones, and costs the same to print as a single image on the same sheet. Laying copies out yourself turns one print into a year's supply, which matters if you are applying for several documents or expect to need spares after a rejected submission.

Leave a small margin around each copy and keep a little space at the sheet edge. Prints are usually cut by hand, and a photo that runs to the very edge of the paper is difficult to trim without clipping the frame.

6. Check yours before you submit

Work through this list in order. Fixing background before cropping, and cropping before checking framing, avoids doing the same work twice.

  1. Is the face sharp at the size it will be printed, viewed at 100 percent?
  2. Is the background a single flat colour, with no shadow, object or gradient?
  3. Is the background the colour this specific document requires?
  4. Is the head between roughly 60 and 70 percent of the image height?
  5. Are the eyes inside the expected band, and unobscured?
  6. Expression neutral, mouth closed, looking straight at the camera?
  7. No shadow on the face, no glare on glasses, no headwear without a declaration?
  8. Do the pixel dimensions match the specification for a digital submission, or the millimetre dimensions for a print?
  9. Have you checked all of the above against the authority's own published requirement, not a general guide?
Make a passport photo at the right size →

Crop to a documented size at 300 dpi, replace the background colour, check the framing against the head-height and eye-line guides, and lay copies out on a 4×6 sheet. Runs in your browser, nothing is uploaded.

Frequently asked

What are the requirements for a passport photo?

Most authorities ask for a plain light background, the head between 60 and 70 percent of the image height, a neutral expression with the mouth closed and the eyes open, the head square to the camera, and a photo printed at 300 dpi in the size that document specifies. Glasses are best removed. The exact figures differ by country, which is why the authority you are applying to is the only source that settles the question.

What size is a passport photo?

There is no single size. The US and India use 2 × 2 inches (600 × 600 pixels at 300 dpi), the UK, Japan, Australia and Schengen visas use 35 × 45 mm (413 × 531 pixels), China uses 33 × 48 mm (390 × 567 pixels), and Canada uses 50 × 70 mm (591 × 827 pixels). The size table above lists all of them.

Can I take an ID photo with a phone?

Yes, and it is the usual method. Two things separate a phone photo that passes from one that fails: light from more than one direction so there is no shadow beside the head, and a plain wall far enough behind the subject that its texture and shadow do not show. A phone's portrait mode should be off, since the blurred background it produces is not a plain background.

Can I smile in a passport photo?

Some authorities state a neutral expression and enforce it, others tolerate a closed-mouth smile. Since you cannot tell which reviewer you will get, take the photo with a neutral expression and your mouth closed. It costs nothing and removes the risk.

Does the photo have to be color?

Almost always, yes. Black and white is accepted by a small number of authorities for some document types, but colour is the safe default and is what the specifications are written against.

Why was my photo rejected for the background when it looks white to me?

Because a wall that reads as white to the eye frequently photographs as off-white or grey, and a soft shadow beside the head counts as a break in uniformity. Measuring the actual pixel values in the background is the way to tell; if they are not a single flat colour, it will fail.

Can I edit my photo to fix these things?

Replacing the background, cropping and resizing are all normal and expected. What is not acceptable is retouching the face — altering features, removing distinguishing marks or smoothing skin — because the photo has to remain a true representation of you. Editing the frame is fine; editing the person is not.

Related